Saturday 25 May 2013

Last night Susan Hertz and I were invited out for a meal with Elaine Lin. We met Elaine at our
church branch and she has become a good friend. I have a Canadian bond with her because
she and her husband lived in Toronto for a few years and her daughter was born there.

Elaine picked us up in her car, which in itself was a treat since we didn't have to brave a bus or metro. It also
gave a good close look at some new streets to explore later. Elaine took us to a restaurant in a mall. It looked as though
the place was used for large banquets and weddings.

The food was absolutely delicious. Elaine wanted us to experience good Cantonese food, and we did.
At times we have found some of the food too "exotic" for our Western tastes and so it was wonderful to have
her guide us. The dishes included: Sweet and sour pork, shrimp (the most tender and fresh shrimp I have
ever eaten), a vegetable dish, rice noodles with beef, Hakka stuffed tofu (the stuffed part was sausage), and
dessert was a rice ball filled with black sesame seeds. The Hakka are a minority group that live in
South China. As always, the food was presented in a beautiful way.

Elaine explained that Cantonese cuisine is the "best in China," and I couldn't find any reason to disagree.
To some, the Cantonese food is too bland and some of the students from other areas complain about it. They
are usually from Hunan or Sichuan province where the hot spice from peppers is almost impossible to tolerate.
Cantonese cuisine prides itself on freshness and allowing the natural flavours to shine without adding
additional spices. Susan and I thoroughly enjoyed ourselves since we are not big fans of the wild spices.

There have been a few surprises while eating in China.
Red beans are a popular addition to many desserts but we haven't developed a taste for them in our
banana splits or milkshakes yet. There is a bright purple paste, probably made from some taro root or
something, that is interesting in colour, texture and taste. Then, it is always a surprise to see chicken
and fish heads displayed on the serving dishes. Even though this can be unsettling, the chicken
or fish is usually tasty. Eating in China is an adventure at times, but more often a real treat.

Elaine told us some interesting cultural things about China.
- Students in undergraduate programs are not allowed to get married until they finish
- She works in a bank and during the usual two hour break from noon until 2 o'clock, she
pulls out a cot that is hidden in his desk (nifty) and has a nap. The whole office does the same.
These "siestas" are observed in the south of China. For example, there are no classes between
noon and 2:30.
- Elaine has a good job and so can afford a "nanny" for her daughter. This nanny is from another
province and has left her two children with her mother so she can get a better job in the city. It is
a fairly common sacrifice and shows the level of poverty that some people from rural areas are
dealing with. This nanny takes care of things until Elaine returns home from work about 7:30 or 8 o'clock.
- Elaine was converted to the church in Canada and has a Canadian passport, enabling her to attend
the church branch for foreign passport holders, even though she was born and raised in the
Guangzhou area.

P.S.
Do you like my pink shirt? I wore it all week and the following email from a very nice student is why.

"Maybe last week, I met you, Mrs. Wright and your friends just near the fountain in our campus. I remember
at that day, you wore a pink blouse. It is different from the cloth (sic) you wear in the class. The pink blouse made you
look very sunny. You were very beautiful that day. I think if you wear that kind of cloth (sic) in the class, our
class will be more, how to say, different. Do not mean that the style you choose to show in the class is not good.
I think students will be happy to see some changes. Just an advice and hoping it is not impolite to
make such a suggestion." Steven

Don and I had a good laugh about this email. As a matter of fact, I had been wondering if I should try to
find something else to wear, since I usually select my coolest (in terms of temperature) outfit.

Thursday 23 May 2013

Our thoughts have been in Beazer this week, thinking about the Purnell family, Lee, Wendy, Jackie and Ken.

Don's oldest sister, Wynona, passed away earlier this week, and today she will be buried in the perfect, little

Beazer cemetery. 

Wynona was a good sister, good sister-in-law and a great aunt to my children.  I admired and loved her.

Whenever we visited, she wanted to catch up on what each of our children were doing. That was appreciated.

All who knew Wynona will agree that she was one of a kind.

Of all the women that I know, it is Wynona who could have been a CEO of a large company.

And, she could have done it almost by herself.

She was creative enough to have the idea.

She was artistic enough to formulate the design.

She was smart enough to get the company organized.

She was tough enough to make sure that it was a success.

And, she was happy enough to have fun while doing it.

Her life didn't take her on the CEO path, but she lived her life with the same

kind of creativity, intelligence, and work ethic, and all the time being the life

of any party.  Her husband and children and grandchildren were her life's work.

She was a success!

Wynona, whenever I see my lovely oil painting of the Cardston Temple, I will think of you and remember that

it is your work.  Whenever Don and I double over laughing about something, even when we should be crying,

we will think about you.  Your example has helped us all.

#3 Monday 20 May 2013

The latest outing was to Hong Kong for a day on Brad Hertz's family history adventure.
This happened last Saturday, May 18.

We left out apartment early and took the metro to the Panyu Hotel in the south of our city.
Part of the way was on motorcycle "taxi," but that is another story. Then a shuttle to the port
and a boat ride down the Pearl River. ( I know… not a complete sentence!) The boat trip was not really on the Pearl River, but
on the bay that the river empties into. We took the pleasant 2-hour trip to the Kowloon
side of the harbour at Hong Kong. There were literally thousands of large barges up and down
the river carrying huge commercial containers. This is one of the great commercial
capitals of the world. So many goods are made in China and that would mean
from this area of China. It was amazing.

Brad wanted to get a "feeling" for Hong Kong from his great-grandfather's point of view.
This Alfred Hertz was a young 21 year old when he came to Hong Kong from Hamburg,
Germany to work for a German import/export company. He lived in Hong Kong for 4 years
and had lived in Canton (Guangzhou) for some of that time. A fever forced him to go
home, or actually to New York where he started his life in America. Brad had his journal
and was excited to see a few places.

Brad especially wanted to see an area called 'Happy Valley" which had the old race track and
a nearby Muslim cemetery. The journal said that Alfred went in a carriage with a friend to the race
track every morning. We surmised that he must have placed a bet every morning. The
journal also tells of a carriage accident where his horse crashed into a massive stone
wall by the Muslim (Mohammedan) cemetery. Don thought that he knew where the area
was since we had seen a flat sports area in a steep valley that had tombstones rising
up the sides of the valley, when we had taken the bus from Stanley Market at one time.

We took a taxi and sure enough, we found the place. The official in the old Catholic cemetery
was a good historian and explained that the old race track was next door and the old Muslim
cemetery was up the hill. There are 3 cemeteries in that happy valley.

After some time walking about, we sat and listened as Brad read excerpts from his Great-
Grandfather's journal. It was a good time. We felt a connection with loved ones both
past and present.

After we looked for 'Cat Street' and found it by taxi. This was a street, both commercial and notorious,
that his grandfather had mentioned. We happened upon a marker for 'Possession Point' and got a sense
of how the original harbour was in the 1870's. It has been landfilled and we commented how Alfred would
be shocked at today's Hong Kong. With some help from a kind passer-by, and much discussion about
how the water couldn't have come this high up the hill, we decided that the harbour must have been fronted
by a steep cliff. This seemed to satisfy our needs to re-create the Hong Kong of 1870. The journal states that
Alfred went swimming in the harbour and he could put a coin 20 feet down, easily see it, and dive to get it.

Since our time was waning, and we had train tickets for the 8:00 train, we hurried back to the Star Ferry and
back to the Kowloon side of the harbour. We did take time to shop in an alley by Cat Street and Susan bought a good red
purse (as all red purses are) and I found a purple jacket. More time was wanted. Much more.

Every time we go back to Hong Kong, we love it more because we get away from the Gucci/Rolex stores and
the hustlers around the Star Ferry area in Kowloon.

It was a great day.
Home late and tired.

#3 Monday 20 May 2013

Where's Waldo in Macau?

#2 Monday 20 May 2013 (Macau)

In the past month we have been able to go to Macau and Hong Kong on short trips.

The end of April, just before the May Day holiday, we spent a weekend in Macau.

This was a very interesting few days.  We took a high speed train, that travelled 200 km,

to Macau, which is on the mainland coast to the west of Hong Kong. Our Holiday Inn

hotel was downtown and in walking distance from the old historical section. This was one

of the most interesting places.  Finally I was able to know where Macau was.  You

probably have heard the name, but where is it?

Look up the history of Macau.  It was the base, starting in the 1500's, for the Portuguese

traders.  They were able to build a walled city there and it was an important trading centre, 

much like Canton (which is Guangzhou).  Macau declined in the 1800's after Hong Kong

became British and important as the centre of Western commerce in the Eastern Asia. It has

remained a small city.

Macau has retained a Portuguese flavour  with its delicious food, buildings, churches

and cobblestones.  The historical centre is very interesting, especially with all the old

Roman Catholic buildings.  You can visualize what it meant for commerce and

Christian evangelism. The distinctive cobblestone design makes the city instantly

recognizable.

Today, the place must be the mecca for gambling.  Part of the city is like Las Vegas in

China.  There are actually casinos that are replicas of the Las Vegas counterparts, but

larger.  We walked through the Venetian casino complex and had a gelato in their

St. Mark's Square just so we could say that we had been in St. Mark's on 3 continents.

We had a quick look, but loved the old historical district more.  We could tell that people

from all over are drawn to Macau.  There were many Westerners, Indians, and others

who were speaking non-Chinese languages.

From our hotel we were told to visit Margaret's Bakery,  since we had heard that pastries

are famous in Macau.  We found it in a dark little alley.  The line-up was 50 deep and apparently

it is like that all day.  We sat outside, ate,  and it was wonderful.  People were buying the egg custard

tarts, by the dozens, and so we did too.  We went back the next morning!

Monday 20 May 2013

For the past few months we have been baffled by a loud noise that we hear at night.
Don says that it is almost impossible to describe. To me it sounds like a cow is caught
in something and is mooing, but is getting tired. The sound is loud and can be heard
through the apartment's thick, cement walls even with the AC and TV on. It is not the
chirping cicada noise that we heard last fall. This sound comes with spring and summer nights.

Discussing this with Susan Hertz, another BYU teacher, we wondered if we were hearing
someone from another apartment snore. It has been a mystery. Finally, last week I was
walking home and it was dark. A female student was standing on the sidewalk, under a tree,
listening to the racket. I stopped and she was able to speak English very well.

ME: What is that noise?
STUDENT: Frogs.
ME: Are you sure?
STUDENT: Yes, frogs.
ME: How big are they?
STUDENT; About this big. (the showed me a size like the flat of her palm)

So, the mystery is solved.
It is almost unbelievable that little frogs could have this volume of noise.
To tell the truth, we will miss it.

Monday 13 May 2013

Here is our friend and student helper, Michael Zhou, and his friend Vicki.

Michael is from the neighbouring province of Hunan and is a sociable, enjoyable and decent young man.
Every Friday he visits a married sister who lives in the city. He cooks a meal for her and helps out, since she is expecting.
This is a typical example of Chinese kindness within a family.

One day he told us that he has three older sisters. This is his story.

"My family has four children, which is unusual. Every family is supposed to have one child, but my father
was able to pay the fine and so we can have more children in our family. It is a very large fine, amounting
to thousands of dollars. My father is not rich, but he was able to pay the fine. My parents love me the most.
For example, I will be given the best piece of meat to eat. It will be put on my plate."

When Michael said this, I had to question him about being loved the most. Do you mean that you are loved because
the family finally has a boy, but everyone is loved equally? Michael replied, "No, I am loved more." This was not said
in an arrogant or unkind way. It was just a matter-of-fact reply. We talked about how girls must feel. He said that
families also love the daughters, but that sons are loved more. He also said that he will not feel like this when
he becomes a father. He will love a boy or a girl equally.

This one-child policy always comes as a shock to Westerners, even though we may understand the practical motivation for its inception.
From my conversations and perceptions, most Chinese do not like this policy, even though they support it as having been necessary.
Most believe that the policy will not be in effect for much longer. That could mean decades still, I suppose. As I listen to student
presentations, I learn that most students come from one-child families. But, many have another sibling, and a few even have more than one.
The pattern is usually the same as Michael's, which is a number of girls and a boy as the youngest. My assumption is that the family
has the means to pay the fine and is not dependent on a government job.

There are exceptions to the one-child policy. Here are a few that I know of.
If both parents come from a one-child home, they may have two children.
Minorities are exempt in certain ways.
A government job limits parents to one child.
Rural parents have some flexibility .

This is a sensitive topic for China. However, my students have been open and eager to discuss it.
Very often they will ask if I know about the one-child policy in China.
I think that they are wondering how it is perceived beyond China. One older student, who is a father
to a little boy, said, "My little boy is lonely. I wish we had another child for him to play with."

Also, the one-child policy has caused a surplus of boys, amounting to millions.
There is even social concern about boys not finding wives to marry.
Right now it is good to be a young, single woman in China. It has not always
been good to be a female in China. On Friday, a student gave a presentation
and said that his mother had to quit school at age fifteen to help pay for her
brother's college tuition. China has made great strides with gender equality. The
president of our university is a woman. However, there is still a long way to go.

One reason I like the new President Xi is because he has one child and she is a daughter.
Michael claims that gender identity before birth is illegal, but it must happen. With such a strong
cultural preference for male children, I respect all parents who happily
love their little girl.